Tuesday, 3 September 2013

29th Aug - 3rd Sept - The End of the Adventure - for this year!


Thurs 29th – Fri 30th Aug – Laying Up
We reluctantly left Ostholmen, and set off towards the boatyard in Saltsjöbaden, near Stockholm, where we’re leaving Astraia over the winter …

We anchored for lunch in a little bay off the island of Hölö – the house hidden in the trees looks a rather lovely place to live …

This family of swans was grateful for our lunch leftovers …

We had a fair wind to make the journey to our winter quarters under sail …

Then dusk fell quite suddenly, as it does at this time of year …

We made our way through a fleet of racing boats …

… and it was getting quite dark by the time we reached Saltsjöbaden …

… where we tied up alongside a pontoon in the Sune Carlsson Boatyard.

We just had time to take off and fold the mainsail before it was completely dark.  It was a good idea to get that job done there and then as it was such a calm and windless evening …

The sky and reflections were amazing …

The next day we backed Astraia into the crane dock, so they could put the slings underneath her …

… lift her out of the water …

… drive her on to dry land and hose her off …

… transfer her to a trailer, pulled by a tractor, and move her round to the winter storage area …

… where she was propped up safely.


We then had a lot to do to remove everything that won’t withstand Swedish winter temperatures.  The engine has to be ‘winterised’ and all water in the boat’s plumbing system removed.  Eventually, Astraia will be covered in ‘shrink-wrap’ to protect her from the cold and the weight of the snow.

Sat 31st Aug – Mon 2nd Sept – Driving Back
Meanwhile, we set off with the car and roofbox overloaded with stuff to drive the 1300 miles back to Bosham.
We had an interesting overnight stay in Lund, a delightful Swedish university town, which was surprisingly lively as it was holding a comedy festival.   Lund was founded in about 990 AD, and was the capital of Denmark for over 400 years.
This is the central square, with its ‘bike park’ – much nicer than a car park …

Lund University is one of Europe’s oldest universities – this is the main University building …

This is Kungshuset Castle, now part of the University …

… and this is the Romanesque Cathedral.

The next overnight stop was in Deventer in Holland, which is one of the ancient Hanseatic ports.
Deventer is well-preserved and unspoilt and many movies have been filmed there.  In particular, scenes in ‘A Bridge Too Far’ which take place in Arnhem were filmed in Deventer instead as Arnhem has lost its historic centre.
The hotel we stayed in was a former monastery …

... this is the stairwell …

This is a typical street in Deventer …

… with some cleverly disguised garages …

We never discovered the purpose of the umbrellas, but they made a striking sight …

This is the massive Cathedral …

… and some of the old merchants’ houses …

Tues 3rd Sept - Home Again!
We’ve had a marvellous summer taking Astraia from Chichester to Stockholm.  We’ve visited some truly beautiful places and had pretty good weather on the whole, sometimes a bit too much wind, other times totally calm – perhaps too little wind from the sailing point of view.  We’ve seen some fabulous sunsets and had many clear starry nights with no light pollution.
The time has absolutely flown past, and we always seem to have been quite busy.  There’s a lot to do on a boat, whether sailing, motoring, going through canals or in harbour.  Plus there was a lot to see to make the most of the various places we passed through.
Now we’re back home – and back to work and reality – but already thinking about the next stage of our Baltic trip and planning next year’s route.
The blog will be back … !


Wednesday, 28 August 2013

Tues 27th - Wed 28th August - Ostholmen


What a wonderful final couple of days we had in the archipelago, enjoying this year’s Indian Summer in Sweden!
We headed back to the inner archipelago to one of our favourite places from previous holidays in this area – Ostholmen.  And it didn’t disappoint – it was just as lovely as we remembered it, but of course this is after the end of the main holiday season, so it may be a lot more crowded normally.
This is approaching the narrow entrance into Ostholmen – there are rocks just under the surface, so the entrance is about half as wide as it looks …

… and this is inside the pretty little bay …

Here we are tied up to a couple of trees …

We scrambled up these trees and rocks – disturbing a startled badger on the way!

… to the top of the cliff …

… from where we could look down on the boats as the sun went down …

This is the view from the other side of the bay, looking towards the cliff we had been standing on …

Here we are celebrating our arrival at our ‘destination’ – the final port of call on our Baltic Adventure – at least this year …

The next morning dawned another perfect day …

I walked across the island of Ostholmen through trees sparkling in the sunlight …

… with glimpses of the sea beyond …

… to the sauna, set among the trees and powered by an underwater electric cable …

You book a time by writing your name in the diary, put a few kronor in the ‘honesty box’, and collect the water to toss on the coals from the old-fashioned hand pump …

When you’ve had your sauna, you just jump into the Baltic, and they’ve put a handy step ladder so you can get out again!
I spent a glorious last morning relaxing in the sauna, jumping into the Baltic and sunbathing and reading on the rocks – perfect!


Now it’s time to head towards Saltsjöbaden where Astraia will be laid up for the winter.

Tuesday, 27 August 2013

Mon 26th - Tues 27th August - Stora Nassa


We set off from the inner islands of the Stockholm archipelago, which are more densely wooded …

… past typical Swedish summer homes …

We stopped in Möja to do some shopping.  It’s a sizeable island, accessible from Stockholm by ferry, and has cafés, restaurants, shops and accommodation.  However, by the end of August the tourist season is more-or-less over, so it was very quiet and, apart from the food store, most things were closed …

Here are all the mail boxes for the whole island …

Having stocked up, we set sail for the outer islands of the archipelago …

These birds have found a convenient resting place …

There are dangerous unmarked rocks lurking on or just below the surface, which must be avoided!

We arrived at Gubben in the Stora Nassa group of islands, put out our stern anchor and tied up to a couple of bushes and a rock (hammering a pieton into a crevice) like all the other boats – it was a beautiful, calm afternoon …

The outer islands are barer and more rocky with sparser trees …

… and the Autumn colours are already beginning to show in August …

The next day, I had an early morning swim under this dramatic sky …

… then the sun warmed up and it was another glorious day …

We had a ramble round the island through the heather which seems to grow out of bare rock …

Sometimes, looking down, the islands look like a relief map laid out beneath us …

By the time we came to leave, we were the last boat in the bay …


We left the wilder islands of Stora Nassa and headed back towards the inner archipelago …