Monday, 24 June 2013

Sun 23rd - Mon 24th June - Kerteminde and Odense


It was wet and windy when we left Korsør …

We motored under the outer pillars of the suspension bridge – it hardly looks high enough, but it is …

… then set the sails – here’s Becca on the helm …

… and relaxing in the sunshine which started to appear from time to time …

We arrived in Kerteminde and went off to explore the town …

… walk along the lake …
… past some pretty little houses …

… and back to Kerteminde marina …

By this time the sun had come out and it was shaping up to be a lovely evening – just as well, as it was Midsummer’s Day and there were celebrations planned in the town – bonfire, barbecue and beer … plus singing along to an accordion and guitar …

There was a lovely sunset over the marina …

… and a beautiful moon rising over the sea – perfect for Midsummer's Night …

The following day we went to Odense on the bus.  It’s where Hans Christian Andersen spent his childhood – not a happy one, with an impoverished, alcoholic mother.  This is the street where he lived in the house on the right hand side – it looks like something out of a fairy-tale …

… and they sometimes give performances in the fairy-tale castle which is part of the museum …

Odense has plenty of nice old streets with interesting houses too …

We saw Rebecca off on the train to Copenhagen airport, and took the bus back to Kerteminde, where we enjoyed a delicious meal on the terrace of the marina restaurant – the evening turned out calm and sunny again …

Sunday, 23 June 2013

Thursday 20th to Friday 21st June - Copenhagen again!




I had another little detour via Copenhagen, this time to meet up with Rebecca who joined us for a few days.  Becca and I had a day and a bit in Copenhagen while Charles was on another trip to Italy.  We stayed on the ‘Donna Wood’ – an old wooden sailing boat dating from 1918 and now used as a hotel and for day trips.  It’s berthed in Nyhavn right in the centre of Copenhagen, so is incredibly convenient for everything …


It has a comfy saloon …

… and everyone was very friendly and welcoming, especially Tine, the Manageress, who spoke excellent English (with a wonderful Mancunian accent).  Here she is off to collect the laundry by bike with a handy trolley attached …

The cabins were basic, but comfortable, though rather hot on this particular night …

You might think I’d had enough of sleeping on board, but this is an excellent central spot from which to explore the city.

The first evening we went to the Tivoli Gardens …

… which really was quite enchanting with lights in the trees …

… pretty gardens and fountains …

… and exhilarating fairground rides.  We tried this one which was called the Star Flyer …

… and had a spectacular view of Copenhagen when we were at the top …

There are also restaurants and bars at Tivoli and we had the ‘famous’ spare ribs, with a massive glass of beer!  They provided bibs, a bucket for the bones and a whole kitchen roll …


Later in the evening the illuminations are shown off to greater effect …




The next morning we went for a tour of the city on a canal boat …

… through a former military area which had been converted into smart apartments and offices …

… past a sand art competition …

… past canal houses reminiscent of Amsterdam …

… and handsome old buildings …
… the Church of Our Saviour with its spiral staircase up the spire …

… and back to Nyhavn.

We then visited the Royal Palace of Christianborg …

… with its square trees …

… sumptuous interiors …

… and bright, colourful, modern tapestries.  There are 17 of them depicting the history of Denmark and they cover the walls of the Great Hall.  They were designed and woven for Queen Margrethe II’s 50th birthday, took 10 years to complete and were installed in time for her 60th!

By way of contrast, we then wandered round the Christiania, a sort of large commune, which was created by squatters occupying a disused military area about 40 years ago … the guy in the archway is offering ‘Free Hugs’!!

Once inside, at first glance it looks like a street market until you realise that, as well as fruit and veg, there are packets of cannabis laid out for sale on the stalls too – you’re not allowed to take photos of that!  We only bought some cherries!  It’s all a bit tatty actually, but interesting to have a brief wander round.

We continued our tour of Copenhagen on foot …

… to Kongens Have (the King’s Garden) and Rosenslot …

… past typical old Danish houses …

… and the Gefion Fountain …

… down to the harbour – here’s Becca and the little mermaid …


… and the two of us at Amalienborg, with the Marble Church behind.

Finally, back to the ‘Donna Wood’ for a well-earned drink …

… before meeting Charles at the station on his way back from Rome.  We had a delicious dinner in a lovely restaurant overlooking the Tivoli Gardens, then took the train back ‘home’ to Astraia.

Life Aboard Astraia



We’ve been ‘live aboards’ now for almost 2 months, and the time has just flown – and we’re still speaking to each other!  Life on board is surprisingly busy, but varies depending if we’re in port, in a canal or making a sea passage.
If we’re making a sea passage there is navigation to do and checking our position as we’re going along, other boats and ships to look out for and avoid, and sails to set and trim according to the wind.
Then there’s making cups of tea and meals – from a ‘cup-a-soup’ if it’s rough to a proper dinner if it’s calmer.  Sometimes, if it’s not too rough, the autopilot can steer which gives us a bit of free time – we would probably take turns at keeping ‘watches’ so one person can read, relax or do the washing up!!  Sometimes the autopilot can’t cope with strong wind and waves, so one person steers most of the time while the other one does everything else!


Astraia’s galley …

When we were in the Dutch canals someone had to steer all the time really as they’re quite narrow, and there are many locks and bridges to negotiate.  The locks involve going alongside, getting ropes ready and fenders out …

The bridges vary – sometimes they open at specific times, so you may have to tie up and wait.  Sometimes they open on demand between certain hours, often excluding rush hours as the roads and railways have to be closed so that we can get through with a mast.  If they open on demand, you just have to wait until the bridge keeper sees you (sometimes via remote camera) and decides that he/she can close the road or railway and open up for you.  Sometimes you have to call them on the boat’s VHF radio and ask for passage.
All this is published in an almanac issued annually with up-to-date information and operating times, but all in Dutch!!  So a considerable amount of our time is spent on translation!!!  Often, pleasure craft must give way to commercial vessels entering a lock, but can go in after them if there’s room – this is called ‘piggybacking’ – one word I’ve learned in Dutch!
There are bridges in Denmark, too, as all the main islands are joined by bridges.  However, not so many have to be opened as most of them are high enough for us to get under – but this one in Sønderborg opened every half hour …

If we’re in port then the day passes very quickly too – exploring the place we’ve just arrived at and doing a bit of sightseeing or going to the beach, as well as catching up with the ‘domestic drudgery’ – laundry, shopping, cleaning the boat inside and out, hoovering, dusting, cleaning windows, bathrooms, cookers etc – just like at home!
We have a ‘saloon’ which is multi-purpose – sometimes we use it as an office – we even have a printer and scanner …

… or it becomes a lounge or dining room …

… or even somewhere to play the boat’s roll-up piano!  (I’m not very good!)

There are 3 sleeping cabins – this is our cabin …

… which has an en suite bathroom and shower …

… and there are two guest cabins, which can accommodate up to 5 people …

Astraia is 13 metres long and 4 metres wide.  If we lived in a flat this size I think we would feel quite crowded.  It’s odd but because we’re always on the move and out in the open air living in a small space doesn’t feel constraining – it’s the freedom of the nomadic life!