Sunday, 25 August 2013

Thurs 22nd - Sun 25th August - Gällnö, Osterskär, Säck


Thurs 22nd – We set off from Sandhamn and followed quite a big ship through narrow channels between the islands …

We had a fine sail through some of the 30,000 islands which make up the Stockholm archipelago – the inner ones are mostly forested …

We passed this square-rigger in full sail …


… and carefully found our way in behind these small islands …

… to anchor in a quiet bay called Hemfladen off the island of Gällnö, near a small settlement of typical Swedish summer houses …

Later the moon rose to one side of us …

… while the sun was still setting on the other …


Fri 23rd – the following day, we meandered through the islands to Osterskär on Tuna Fjärden fjord …



We ‘parked’ our boat on our friends’, Sue and Ulf’s, jetty …

… at the bottom of their garden …

… and all enjoyed a drink on board …

… before going up to their house for dinner …


Sat 24th – We sailed off through a fleet of racing boats …

… past a large ferry …

… and these traditional wooden sailing craft  …

… to a beautiful little bay on the island of Säck …

… where we dropped the stern anchor and tied up to 3 trees …

We went for a walk around the island …

… and unexpectedly found a volleyball court marked out on a very large flat rock in the middle of the island!




Sun 25th – It was such a beautiful spot, perfect for swimming, sunbathing, reading – and the weather was absolutely glorious too …


We had visitors who arrived by boat …

Sue, Ulf and their friends Lea and Carl-Erik came for lunch – a most convivial and relaxing afternoon with a lot of fun and laughter …



At the end of the day, the reflections were amazing …

 … and the sun cast a golden hue over the bay …


Thursday, 22 August 2013

Tues 20th - Thurs 22nd August - Sandhamn


We had a pleasant sail through the islands to the famous resort of Sandhamn on the island of Sandön (Sand Island).  It has been a sailing centre since the 19th century and is the Swedish equivalent of Cowes.  The approach is through the narrow channel on the left between the sheer rock and the red stick buoy …

We arrived in the late afternoon and easily found a berth in the marina as it’s now the low season here …

We then had a chance meeting on the pontoon with Anne, Brian, Adrian and Maeve and discovered a mutual acquaintance (PB from the Royal St George Yacht Club in Dun Laoghaire).  This led to a few bottles being consumed and great fun swapping Irish stories!

This was the sunset over The Royal Swedish Yacht Club …

The next day was absolutely perfect weather – this is the Royal Swedish Yacht Club by day …

I went for a lovely early morning swim, then sunbathed on these rocks …

The heather seems to grow quite profusely, apparently rooted in nothing but rock …

Here are our Irish friends leaving port on board Oisin Ban …

I went for a cycle ride to the other side of the island, past this quaint little cabin with a grass roof …

… and some rather grander houses with fabulous sea views …

… to a proper beach – with sand rather than rocks.  I swam from this quite sheltered beach …

In the next bay there were also a few hardy souls in the water, but there was quite a fresh wind – it was one of those days when it was warmer in than out!

I cycled back via the town, meandering through the narrow streets with their typical Swedish wooden houses, both large and small.  This one looked as if it only had one room …

The next day we stocked up on delicious bread and cakes from the (very expensive) local bakery – £17 for one loaf of bread and 4 small cakes!


… and had a walk to another lovely beach before setting sail.


Monday, 19 August 2013

Sat 17th August onwards - An 'Indian Summer' in Sweden


What an amazing ‘Indian Summer’ we’ve had during the last couple of weeks of August – it’s been such a lovely and unexpected finale to our trip!  We’ve spent the final 2 weeks cruising around the Stockholm Archipelago, an amazing sailing area of 30,000 islands, islets and rocks!
Sat 17th– Mon 19th – Nynäshamn to Gålön and Kymmendö
We sailed from Nynäshamn on a greyish afternoon, goose-winging through the islands …

The cloud as the sun went down was quite beautiful, and gave the impression of snow-covered mountains in the distance …

After some hunting around and with darkness approaching rather too quickly, we found an anchorage in a bay off Gålön, tucked behind the Appelviksud headland, and watched another spectacular sunset – this time the clouds look quite smoky, like a distant forest fire …

Pulling the anchor up the next morning was hard work – and this is why!  You can just see the point of the anchor peeping through the weed.  It needed some effort to get rid of that lot, using a boat hook and hands, and took ages to hose down the decks with clean sea water.

Eventually we were off!  We motored close to Dalarö Skans, an island with a fortress, where Charles spent a fortnight when he was a 16-year-old sea cadet …

… past a typical small settlement of red and white houses …

… and into a little bay on Kymmendö, an island off the larger island of Ornö, where we tied up to a rock, Swedish style …

The next morning was even brighter and sunnier, perfect for a long swim round the bay, and warm enough to put the bimini up …

Then we walked across to the other side of the island, through trees …

… and over rocks, lichen and moss …

… following signs to Strindberg’s writing cabin …

It certainly is a fairly basic cabin, more correctly an 8’ x 6’ shed!

… but it has got an inspiring view …

It’s so quiet here, only rocks, water and trees – the sea is incredibly calm, like a millpond …

Everyone seems to have gone back to work and we’re the only boat here …